It's easy! Just follow our fitter's simple steps for a perfect installation.
All the tools and adhesives you need are available on this site.
Before you start, have a good look at the floor surface.This should be sound, solid and dry. If you’re in any doubt about cracks, holes, unevenness, damp or dust issues please ring us on 0115 940 4454 for free expert advice.
Pay attention to the arrows on the backs of the carpet tiles – lay them all in the same direction for a broadloom look. Alternating each carpet tile will reflect the light differently creating an attractive checkerboard pattern. Needlepunch velours and ribs must be laid checkerboard because of the directional nature of the pile fibre. Some carpet tiles can be laid brick-bond, phone us on 0115 940 4454 for advice if you’re not sure.
Just follow these six steps to a professional looking finish:
- 1. Find the centre of the room and mark with a chalk line.
- 2. Loose lay a line of carpet tiles along the chalk line then out from the centre to both walls to form a cross – this will allow you to check the gaps at the edges. These should ideally be equal, and over half a carpet tile all the way round. If you have a very narrow gap at each edge, adjust your starting point to suit. It’s always best to avoid narrow cuts in doorways.
Back to the homepage here
Fitter’s Tip –Always start in the middle; don’t start off along a wall. If the wall runs out of true, so will the carpet tiles.
- 3. Stick down the centre cross of carpet tiles using spray adhesive. Just spray the floor OR the back of the carpet tile, not both, because you’ll struggle to get them up again.
- 4. In a small room use spray adhesive; you can just glue every third or fifth row to save money. In large rooms use liquid tackifier applied with a foam roller on a pole.
Fitter’s Tip - You can apply the liquid tackifier to as small or large an area as you like, but you MUST wait 20 - 30 minutes for it to dry to a clear, tacky film. The adhesive will then remain permanently tacky allowing easy uplift of your carpet tiles. If you lay carpet tiles into wet adhesive they will be almost impossible to lift in future, and a floor stripping machine may be required.
- 5. From the centre of the cross fill out the four corners. Bend each carpet tile down slightly at two edges then butt it up firmly to its neighbour – but don’t overdo it or the carpet tiles will “tent” where they meet. Make sure you don’t trap the pile along the edges.
Fitter’s Tip -Be sure to lay each carpet tile exactly in line with its neighbour. If you allow the tiles to go “out of register” (i.e. where the corners of four tiles in a square don’t make a perfect cross) the effect can become compounded down the line of tiles.
- 6. Nearly there – just the cutting in around the edges to do. To create the edge cuts, place a carpet tile (A) butted up firmly to the skirting board and laying on top of the last carpet tile you laid (B). Cut through the lower carpet tile B, remove and replace with carpet tile A, then the cut section of carpet tile B will fit perfectly in the gap.
Fitter's Final Tip - Change your cutting knife blade regularly – every 5 or 6 cuts.
Then stand back and admire your work! If you prefer, call us on 0115 940 4454 for a professional fitting service from as little as £3.50 per square metre.